When Monuments Can(Not) Speak“
Scheiße!...” he whispers, tearing his eyes from the mobile phone and uneasily looking around. “
Mauthausen OÖ Gedenkstätte/Memorial,” repeats the indifferent voice of the announcement – obviously not the bus stop the little passenger in bright sport shorts was planning to get off. For a while, we remain the only travelers on Bus 361 that rattles along the gravel road through the bucolic landscape of Upper Austria. And although our stories and destinations have little in common, still there is something that brings us together. We are both afraid of what we could find there. He probably more.
The creation and management of sites dedicated to remembrance is crucial and, in many ways, reflects not only the history of the former places of terror but also political course of the state – its past, present, and future. On my trip to Mauthausen and Gusen memorial sites, I expected to find a monument to grief attended by travelers from all over the world, a space for mourning and a promise to learn the lessons that had cost hundreds of thousands lives. Instead, I discovered something else: fearful scarce concentration camp visitors hastily passing by the plaques and the flocks of teenagers moving from barrack to barrack in scared sacred silence, exposed to the place of death of 90 000 people as a part of obligatory school curriculum. “
You know what,” a friend would write me later that day, “
a guy who once worked in Mauthausen told me that it took them much effort to stop teachers who accompanied the groups of 14-year-olds from closing the kids in the lower ground level execution cellar so that they “could better feel the atmosphere”.
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